The province of Quebec in Canada is a culturally unique part of North America, dominated by French history and language. The early French came into North America through the St. Lawrence River and built the heavily fortified Quebec City at its mouth. However, the area of Quebec City had rocky cliffs and a harsher climate; hence, going farther south along the river, Montreal was the ideal location at the intersection of many rivers. Montreal started as a junction for fur-trading with Indigenous communities, later becoming a farming settlement with pleasant weather and fertile soils, and soon becoming a large metropolitan city.
Up until the 1970s, Montreal was the largest city in Canada and its economic and cultural centre. Its old grandeur still lingers in its giant cathedrals, chateaus, bank halls, operas, and heritage hotels.
English or French?
Modern-day Montreal has French as its official language but is bilingual in practice due to its close proximity to English Canada and the United States. In fact, the city is right on the borders of Ontario and Vermont and a short train ride from Toronto or New York.
However, there has been a difficult history of French-English conflict here, and visitors to the city should be mindful of this. Generally, Montrealers greet you with “Bonjour Hi”, and depending on whether you greet back with Bonjour or Hi, they will switch the language for you.
If you approach someone, or are greeted with just “Bonjour”, it is respectful to say “Bonjour Hello” to imply you’re an English-speaker, but you have given a nod to the French.
Since French is the official language, all signs are in French. Stop signs will be “Arrêt” and “Dépanneur” means a convenience store / corner shop. However, most people speak fluent English and there will not be any language barriers in conversations.
Old Montreal
Old Montreal is the oldest European neighbourhood of the city, going back to the 1600s when it was called Ville-Marie, and Quebec province was New France. The Rue Saint Paul (Saint Paul Street) cuts through its centre and has a lineup of beautiful French and Victorian architecture on both sides.
Pointe-à-Callière Museum
This is a great museum located inside a glass building. It showcases the city’s history and artifacts of human settlement dating back to prehistoric times. However, the real gem is when you take the elevators down to the basement and see the 17th-century ruins of the old city. There is also a walkway through an old sewer. The ruins are all lit up by projectors, showing the lives and times of people walking over the present-day walls of the ruins.
Chateau Ramezay
Chateau Ramezay was built around 1700s as the residence of the Governor and is today a museum, detailing the history of the province from its indigenous roots, French settlement, British conquest, and role in American and Canadian history.
It also has a beautiful garden outside that is open to the public.
Notre Dame Basilica
One of the most beautiful churches in North America, the Notre Dame Basilica has an extremely ornate and colorful interior under a symbolic sky represented by a blue ceiling with a shining star pattern.
There is also a light-and-sound show in the evening called Aura, which highlights different parts of the architecture through laser lights and creates an emotional journey through peace, then storm, and then reprieve.
Bon Secours Chapel
This is most likely the oldest surviving church in Montreal. Mariners in the old days prayed here to thank them for a safe passageway over the water, and often gifted votive lamps in the shape of boats and ships, which hang from the ceiling. One can also climb up the tower for a view of the harbor and old city, or go down to the underground crypts.
When I visited, an orchestra group was rehearsing before their performance. The church had amazing acoustics, and I sat there, mesmerized by the candle-lit hall reverberating with beautiful classical music.
Food and Coffee-
Cafe Olympico is the go-to for excellent coffee, nestled in an old stone house building. For ambience, check out Crew Collective, which is housed in a former bank building and thus is the most luxurious cafe in the country.
For a more eclectic vibe, check out Le Petite Dep, with its iconic green windows and charming interior stuffed with antiques. I loved their canelé with Nutella filling, a perfect mix of old France and modern North America. I also loved Muru Crepe, which is Studio Ghibli-themed, and they had an amazing crème brûlée crepe cone. Lastly, Cafe Chat Colate is for you if you are into Cat-Themed decor and Hot Chocolate.
More coming up on other neighborhoods like Plateau Mont-Royal, Miles End, etc., as well as Quebec City.
